Organic Tea: Is It Worth It?
In recent years, we've seen an explosion of claims and certifications in the tea industry. Ultimately, the consumer will (and should) drive the evolution of any controls that protect the quality, environmental sustainability, and economic sustainability of the foods they consume. That said, it is essential for those of us in the tea industry, and those who care about the tea industry, to understand and communicate the pros and cons of any particular certification or quality control approach.
We believe, without reservation, in the concepts and theories behind movements like Organic and Fair Trade. At the same time, each of these certifications (and a host of other competing programs) is not yet perfect. However, while calling attention to the impact of Organic Certification on the premium tea business and some of the current program's shortcomings, we do not wish to discourage people from buying Organic, but to encourage a comprehensive understanding and continued evolution of Organic Certification rules. For example, we would like to see adjustments made in the regulations to account for the inherent differences between growing corn in Colorado versus tea in Taiwan. More on this later.
To begin, one must understand what makes a product organic. The USDA tells us that organic foods are those that are "produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation." In other words, Organic foods must use very few chemicals during the growing process. In addition, the soil that the products are grown in must be free and clear of the same chemicals. In practice, the prohibition against artificial fertilizers and pesticides (natural versions may still be used) typically reduces tea production by 30-40% vs. conventional methods.
While "organic" does have real meaning and impact on the environment, it is not focused on the quality of the tea and does not come with guarantees. Organic Certification controls the inputs and the process and strives to protect the environment, but does not involve any testing or verification after the tea is produced to determine whether the rules were followed. Because there are no quality standards for the final product, organic certification also does not guarantee that there are no environmental pollutants or contaminants during processing or packaging.
Being "certified" organic is also a rather complicated process. There are hundreds of different agencies internationally that certify products as organic. Each agency has different standards, and some certifications are accepted in one country but not in others. For example, some products considered organic by the European organic association will not be regarded as organic by the USDA. Undoubtedly, these complications are due to political reasons as well as health concerns. It is natural to suspect a tea company that boasts a foreign "organic" sticker. But, on the other hand, there is no scientific evidence showing that it is dangerous to drink tea that is not organic (provided the farmer isn't using chemicals that are already banned by other regulations).
Most importantly, because of the bureaucratic complexity of certifications and the small size of many premium tea producers, most teas that could qualify as organic will never be formally certified. The Organic movement started with small producers and farmers' markets. Because, as with most good things, people started taking advantage of the movement and improperly claiming the organic label, complex regulatory regimes were put in place. The complexities of Organic Certification and the differences between the requirements of different consuming countries tilt the scales in favor of the vast tea conglomerates (read: "big business") with thousands of acres under production. Yet the best teas are usually produced in tiny lots and come from small, family-run tea gardens.
As an aside, it is essential to note that between the costs of Organic Certification, the extra effort involved in organic agriculture, the reduction in output of 30%+, and the fact that there are no controls or tests of the final product, the incentives to cheat are significant! Without naming any specific country or producer, consider that if it's common knowledge that 70% of the "Darjeeling tea" sold globally doesn't originate from Darjeeling, it's likely that a significant portion of the "Organic Tea" sold in the US isn't truly organic. It is essential to buy from growers, distributors, and retailers that you trust, regardless of the certification!
In conclusion, we are indeed in favor of environmentally sustainable farming methods. We are also in favor of input and quality controls. We would prefer to see the final output of a garden tested for "real" purity and quality rather than a bureaucratically audited paper trail promising that the rules were followed. The only approach we’re uncomfortable with from a tea retailer's perspective is the one that says only Organic tea should be sold and consumed. We find it fascinating that the same people who will only buy organic coffee or tea have no interest in organic wine... Regardless, mindlessly chasing the Organic certification label has the potential to crush the small producer and dramatically reduce the range of unusual and beautiful teas available to the consumer. Organic production accounts for less than 2% of the world's food supply and less than 3% of the US food supply. Less than 1% of US agriculture is organic.
It is essential for any tea retailer to offer their customer Organic options. You would be doing yourself a disservice to ignore the movement. At the same time, conventionally grown teas still account for all but a few percent of the total industry output and are still a better value.
We believe, without reservation, in the concepts and theories behind movements like Organic and Fair Trade. At the same time, each of these certifications (and a host of other competing programs) is not yet perfect. However, while calling attention to the impact of Organic Certification on the premium tea business and some of the current program's shortcomings, we do not wish to discourage people from buying Organic, but to encourage a comprehensive understanding and continued evolution of Organic Certification rules. For example, we would like to see adjustments made in the regulations to account for the inherent differences between growing corn in Colorado versus tea in Taiwan. More on this later.
To begin, one must understand what makes a product organic. The USDA tells us that organic foods are those that are "produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation." In other words, Organic foods must use very few chemicals during the growing process. In addition, the soil that the products are grown in must be free and clear of the same chemicals. In practice, the prohibition against artificial fertilizers and pesticides (natural versions may still be used) typically reduces tea production by 30-40% vs. conventional methods.
While "organic" does have real meaning and impact on the environment, it is not focused on the quality of the tea and does not come with guarantees. Organic Certification controls the inputs and the process and strives to protect the environment, but does not involve any testing or verification after the tea is produced to determine whether the rules were followed. Because there are no quality standards for the final product, organic certification also does not guarantee that there are no environmental pollutants or contaminants during processing or packaging.
Being "certified" organic is also a rather complicated process. There are hundreds of different agencies internationally that certify products as organic. Each agency has different standards, and some certifications are accepted in one country but not in others. For example, some products considered organic by the European organic association will not be regarded as organic by the USDA. Undoubtedly, these complications are due to political reasons as well as health concerns. It is natural to suspect a tea company that boasts a foreign "organic" sticker. But, on the other hand, there is no scientific evidence showing that it is dangerous to drink tea that is not organic (provided the farmer isn't using chemicals that are already banned by other regulations).
Most importantly, because of the bureaucratic complexity of certifications and the small size of many premium tea producers, most teas that could qualify as organic will never be formally certified. The Organic movement started with small producers and farmers' markets. Because, as with most good things, people started taking advantage of the movement and improperly claiming the organic label, complex regulatory regimes were put in place. The complexities of Organic Certification and the differences between the requirements of different consuming countries tilt the scales in favor of the vast tea conglomerates (read: "big business") with thousands of acres under production. Yet the best teas are usually produced in tiny lots and come from small, family-run tea gardens.
As an aside, it is essential to note that between the costs of Organic Certification, the extra effort involved in organic agriculture, the reduction in output of 30%+, and the fact that there are no controls or tests of the final product, the incentives to cheat are significant! Without naming any specific country or producer, consider that if it's common knowledge that 70% of the "Darjeeling tea" sold globally doesn't originate from Darjeeling, it's likely that a significant portion of the "Organic Tea" sold in the US isn't truly organic. It is essential to buy from growers, distributors, and retailers that you trust, regardless of the certification!
In conclusion, we are indeed in favor of environmentally sustainable farming methods. We are also in favor of input and quality controls. We would prefer to see the final output of a garden tested for "real" purity and quality rather than a bureaucratically audited paper trail promising that the rules were followed. The only approach we’re uncomfortable with from a tea retailer's perspective is the one that says only Organic tea should be sold and consumed. We find it fascinating that the same people who will only buy organic coffee or tea have no interest in organic wine... Regardless, mindlessly chasing the Organic certification label has the potential to crush the small producer and dramatically reduce the range of unusual and beautiful teas available to the consumer. Organic production accounts for less than 2% of the world's food supply and less than 3% of the US food supply. Less than 1% of US agriculture is organic.
It is essential for any tea retailer to offer their customer Organic options. You would be doing yourself a disservice to ignore the movement. At the same time, conventionally grown teas still account for all but a few percent of the total industry output and are still a better value.